Jessica Pilz

Jessica Pilz
	Pilz competing in 2017
Personal information
Nationality	Austrian
Born	22 November 1996 (age 28); Haag, Austria
Height	165 cm (5 ft 5 in)
Weight	52 kg (115 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Competition climbing; Sport climbing; Bouldering;
Highest grade	Redpoint: 8c+ (5.14c); ; ;
Known for	World Champion in 2018 (Lead); Won 6 international youth competitions in competition lead climbing; Won 2 international youth competitions in competition bouldering;
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing Austria
Olympic Games
World Championships
World Cup (Overall)
European Championships
Winter Military World Games
	Updated on 28 April 2019

Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.

In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.

In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.

In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics,^[1] where she finished 7th.^[2]

In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.

In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.^[3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.

In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.^[4]

Rock climbing

She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes.^[5]

Rankings

IFSC Climbing World Cup

Discipline^[6]	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017	2018	2019	2021	2022	2023	2024
Lead	33	19	13	3	9	4	2	10	-	10	1	1
Bouldering	–	–	–	–	25	58	11	5	12	7	17	11
Speed	–	–	–	–	–	57	63	-	-	-	-	-
Combined	–	–	–	–	3	10	4	3	-	-	4

IFSC Climbing World Championships

Youth^[7]

Discipline	2010 Youth B	2011 Youth B	2012 Youth A	2013 Youth A	2014 Junior	2015 Junior
Lead	16	1	1	1	2	2
Bouldering	–	–	–	–	–	3
Speed	–	–	–	–	–	21

Adult^[7]

Discipline	2016	2018	2019	2023
Lead	5	1	6	6
Bouldering	-	4	33	8
Speed	-	59	43	-
Combined	-	3	10	2

Climbing European Championships

Youth^[7]

Discipline	2012 Youth A	2013 Youth A	2014 Junior	2015 Junior
Lead	1	1	2	1
Bouldering	–	2	1	2

Adult^[7]

Discipline	2013	2015	2017
Lead	11	3	3
Bouldering	–	5	12
Speed	–	31	41

Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games

Discipline	2017
Lead	1
Bouldering	1
Speed	2

European Youth Cup

Discipline	2010 Youth B	2011 Youth B	2012 Youth A	2013 Youth A	2014 Junior	2015 Junior
Lead	5	2	2	6	2	–
Bouldering	–	3	5	12	1	2

Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season^[7]	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2014			1	1
2015		3	3	6
2016		1		1
2017		1		1
2018	2	3	1	6
2019		1	1	2
2020				0
2021				0
2022				0
2023		2	1	3
2024	1	1		1
Total	3	12	7	22

Bouldering

Season^[7]	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2019			1	1
Total	0	0	1	1

Gallery

Pilz receiving gold medal in lead climbing at the 2017 Winter Military World Games
Pilz competing at the European Championships in Chamonix, 2013
Pilz competing at the Winter Military World Games in Sochi, 2017
Pilz competing at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, 2017

References

^ "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?".
^ "Jessica PILZ Biography, Olympic Medals, Records and Age". International Olympic Committee. Archived from the original on 2022-11-10.
^ "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.
^ Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "World Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-08-10.
^ UK-Climbing, ed. (6 January 2016). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz". Retrieved October 22, 2017.
^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

External links

theCrag profile

[1] "Where do we stand on Tokyo 2020 Olympic qualification in sport climbing?".

[2] "Jessica PILZ Biography, Olympic Medals, Records and Age". International Olympic Committee. Archived from the original on 2022-11-10.

[3] "OLYMPIC CHAMPION GARNBRET WINS PARIS 2024 TICKET WITH PILZ AND MORI". 2023-08-12. Retrieved 2023-08-12.

[4] Aspland, Richard (2024-08-10). "World Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-08-10.

[5] UK-Climbing, ed. (6 January 2016). "Two ~8c+'s by Jessy Pilz". Retrieved October 22, 2017.

[IFSC_Worldcups-6] IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

[IFSC_profile-7] ^ ^a ^b ^c ^d ^e ^f IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Pilz's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.

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