Silk

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Daenerys Targaryen in her Qartheen silk gown, by Veronica V. Jones. © Fantasy Flight Games.

Silk is an expensive luxury fabric, made from the cocoons of certain caterpillars. Typically, only nobles and wealthy merchants can afford silks, poorer people wear cotton.[1] Silk is used to make clothing, but can also be used in luxury furnishings and furniture, among other goods.[2]

Production and trade

In Westeros, wealthy lords from Sunspear to Winterfell can obtain silk through long-distance trade. In Essos, magisters and lords from the Free Cities to Slaver's Bay wear silk,[3] and even the Dothraki accept a few silk items as tribute.[4]

Silk-exporting regions that have been mentioned include:

  • Qarth: during one of his voyages to the east, Corlys Velaryon loaded up his ships at Qarth with silks and spices.[5]
  • The Jade Sea: While in Volantis, Quentyn Martell remarks that few merchant ships from Westeros come as far east as the city, and those who do fill up their holds with silks and spices originating from the Jade Sea, then return home.[6]
  • Naath: the island of Naath used to export shimmering silk fabrics, reaching markets in King's Landing and the Free Cities. After the Doom of Valyria, however, increased slaver-raids nearly destroyed Naath's silk industry.[7]

In Essos, an overland route exists called the Silk Road, originating in the mountain passes of the Bone Mountains. The trade flowing west through these passes consists of caravans from Yi Ti.[8]

Culture

Silk-clad desert knights of House Dayne, by Tomasz Jedruszek

Lady of Silk is a war galley of the royal fleet.[9] Silken Spirit is a Myrish galley.[10] Silken Cloud is a galley owned by Xaro Xhoan Daxos.[11]

The Street of Silk in King's Landing is known for its brothels of varying expense.[12][13]

The sigil of House Piper depicts a pink dancing maiden in a swirl of white silk.[14][15]

The song Oh, Lay My Sweet Lass Down in the Grass contains the following lyrics: "I'll dress you all in yellow silk".[16]

The men of Qarth wear beaded silk skirts.[17]

The city guards of Astapor wear yellow silk cloaks with copper disks sewn into it. The Good Masters of Astapor light silk lanterns on their terraces at dusk.[18]

The High Hall of the Eyrie has a blue silk carpet on its floor.[19]

Free folk raiders cross the Wall to steal silks and any valuables they can find.[20]

In Westeros, knights wear silk ribbons tied around their swords as ladies' favours.[21]

History

The Targaryen Lords of Dragonstone before the Conquest often gifted the mothers of their dragonseed bastards with gold, silk and land.[22]

Queen Visenya Targaryen was said to be as comfortable in ringmail as in silk.[23]

With the help of his master of coin, Rego Draz, King Jaehaerys I Targaryen passed taxes on silk in 50 AC.[24]

Mance Rayder was attacked by a shadowcat while ranging, and was healed by a wildling woman, a wisewoman's daughter. While he recuperated, she mended his torn cloak with swatches of red silk.[25]

Rhaegar Targaryen wore a plume of red silk in the Tourney at Harrenhal.[26]

Recent Events

A Game of Thrones

Daenerys Targaryen wears a deep plum gown made of silk that brings out the violet in her eyes when she meets Khal Drogo for the first time, while Magister Illyrio Mopatis wears garments of flame-colored silk.[3]

King Robert I Baratheon wears silks when being greeted by the Starks in Winterfell.[27] On the feast offered in Winterfell, Ser Jaime Lannister wears crimson silk.[27]

Nymeria helps Arya Stark pack by snatching wisps of silk on her jaws.[28]

Daenerys Targaryen wears silks in her wedding to Khal Drogo.[29] She is given sandsilks as a wedding present.[29]

Sansa Stark wears her nciest blue silks when invited to Queen Cersei Lannister and Princess Myrcella Baratheon's presence in the royal wheelhouse.[30]

Joffrey Baratheon's arm is wrapped in silk bandages after he is bitten by Nymeria.[31]

When meeting Catelyn Tully and Petyr Baelish in King's Landing, Varys wears a loose gown of purple silk. [32] The women in Littlefinger's brothel wear wisps of silk.[33]

Arya Stark tosses handfuls of silk from her chest in search of Needle.[34]

Viserys Targaryen wears stained and soiled city silks in the Dothraki sea.[2] They later were reported to have stained from hard travel and rotted with sweat, some of them scarlet silks.[35][36] Daenerys Targaryen has her silk tent be erected when she reaches the khalasar after riding with Jorah Mormont.[2]

Eddard Stark wears a silk tunic when meeting Grand Maester Pycelle to inquire about Jon Arryn.[37] After a council meeting, Eddard strips of his council silks and sits with Jon Arryn's book while waiting for Jory Cassel.[38]

A rider carries a long black silk banner ahead of Beric Dondarrion.[38]

Sansa Stark rides to the Hand's Tourney with Septa Mordane and Jeyne Poole in a litter with curtains of sheer yellow silk.[39] King Robert I Baratheon's pavilion during the Hand's Tourney is made of golden silk.[40] Robert refers to his squires to swineherds dressed in silk.[40]

Eddard Stark finds Arya wandering around with a swatch of black silk over her eyes after having hired Syrio Forel to teach her.[40]

Willis Wode's helmet contains a long black silk plume when attacked by the Mountain Clans.[41]

When meeting Eddard Stark, Littlefinger wears a cloak of grey silk.[42]

After Eddard is attacked by Lannister guardsmen, Grand Maester Pycelle orders others to fetch him clean silk.[43]

Daenerys Targaryen readied a sandsilk cloak to be given to her brother Viserys as a gift. He refuses them, and she later wraps herself in them.[35]

When meeting Tyrion Lannister to hear the confession of his crimes, Lysa Tully wears black silk embedded with pearls in the shape of the Arryn moon and falcon.[44]

As Loras Tyrell asks for the task of informing Gregor Clegane of his dues to the king's justice, he wears pale blue silk.[45]

The roof of Khal Drogo's "palace" in Vaes Dothrak is made of silk.[35][36] Khal Drogo's tent is made of sandsilk.[46] Daenerys Targaryen's sleeping place includes sleeping silks.[2][47][48] Daenerys has her silk tent be erected when she reaches the khalasar after arguing with Viserys.

After bathing in the Womb of the World, Daenerys Targaryen is dressed in a robe of scented, painted sandsilk.[36] Daenerys tells Ser Jorah Mormont Jhogo has told her traders bring with them eunuchs to Vaes Dothrak, who strange others with wisps of silk instead of using swords, forbidden inside the city.[36] When threatening Daenerys, Viserys Targaryen pushes his sword through her silks and against her skin.[36]

When announced a steward on the Night's Watch, Samwell Tarly mops at his brow with a scrap of silk.[49]

Meeting Eddard Stark in the throne room after King Robert I Baratheon's death, Cersei Lannister wears a gown of sea-green silk, trimmed with Myrish lace as pale as foam.[50]

After finding her father's men dead or nearly dead, Arya Stark sees silks she never wears in a splintered chest. Among its contents, there is a silk tunic. [51]

Arya Stark throws an orange at her sister, Sansa Stark, ruining her ivory silk dress in the process.[52] Sansa later dyes the dress black to hide the stains. The now black silk dress is worn at King Joffrey Baratheon's first court session.[53]

Cersei Lannister wears a high-collared black silk gown, with a hundred dark red rubies sewn into her bodice, covering her from neck to bosom when Sansa Stark meets her in the council chambers.[54]

Daenerys Targaryen wears sandsilk after being scrubbed clean by her handmaids. Later, she is carried on a litter with red silk curtains.[4]

Varys compares Stannis and Renly Baratheon to an iron gauntlet and a silk glove respectively.[26]

Jon Snow has his arm wrapped in silk after burning himself throwing flaming drapes.[55]

Mirri Maz Duur closes the wound of Khal Drogo with silk thread.[56]

Daenerys Targaryen lays a length of silk across Drogo's brow to cool his skin when he collapses. Ser Jorah Mormont wears trousers of mottled sandsilk when he joins her in the tent.[46]

A whore in Flea Bottom wears a wisp of painted silk when Arya Stark hears the summoning bells for Eddard Stark's sentence announcement.[57] Joffrey Baratheon wears crimson silk when announcing his sentence, while Sansa Stark wears sky-blue silk. [57]

Meryn Trant wears white silk gloves with blood on the knuckles as he is questioned by Joffrey Baratheon.[58] Sansa Stark wears a green silk dress when being summoned by Joffrey Baratheon.[58]

Daenerys Targaryen is dressed in a robe of sandsilk after waking. [47] She smothers khal Drogo with a cushion of soft silk filled with feathers[47], and wears sandsilk trousers as he is laid on cushions and silks that are included in his pyre.[48] As Drogo is burnt, Daenerys compares the flames to wisps of floating orange silk.[48]

A Clash of Kings

When first being introduced, Melisandre wears a loose gown of flowing silk bright as fire. Among Stannis' lords, Maester Cressen spots Lord Monford Velaryon wearing sea-green silk.[59]

As she dresses for the tourney in Joffrey's honour, Sansa Stark dresses in a pale purple gown of silk, with long sleeves to hide her bruises. She takes notice of Ser Arys Oakheart wearing a silk cloak, and Lord Gyles Rosby coughing in a pink silk square, which he seems to do often,[60][61] In the tourney, Ser Dontos Hollard's horse is seen in crimson and scarlet silks. Tyrion Lannister has, his arm in a white silk sling.[60]

Jeor Mormont tells Jon Snow his brother, Robb Stark will be garbed in silks, while his will be a different life in the Wall.[62]

Tyrion Lannister recalls having given Shae silks and other costly materials to adorn herself with. [63]

Axell Florent claims to have seen maids in yellow silk dancing before a great king in the fire.[64]

To meet with his father, Theon Greyjoy wears black silk gloves decorated in golden thread. His decision to wear silks and velvets is later questioned by Balon Greyjoy, comparing it to a woman's garb.[65] Asha Greyjoy mocks his like of silks later.[66]

Tyrion Lannister is brought a cloak of crimson silk fringed in gold by Podrick Payne. When arriving in Chataya's establishment, he is welcomed by her as she wears flowing silks. The women inside also dress in flowing silks, with beaded belts in their waists.[67]

Bran takes notice of Little Walder's preference for streamers of blue and grey silk, as opposed to Big Walder's crest, shaped as a castle.[68]

Catelyn Tully sees the golden rose of Highgarden sewn into silk banners at Renly Baratheon's camp. Renly's pavilion is made of green silk.[69][70][71] The members of the Rainbow Guard wear rainbow-striped silk cloaks.[69]

The Qarth camelry wear long black sil plumes, and Daenerys notices the qartheen men's preferance of beaded silk skirts in contrast with the gowns of qartheen women. When arriving on Qarth, Daenerys wears travel-stained silks, and the quarters provided to her are adorned with silk curtains.[17]

As Tyrion visits him, Lancel wears garb with black silk undersleeves. Later, seeing Alayaya, she wears gauzy green silk.[72]

In Tywin Lannister's service, Arya Stark sees the body of Medger Cerwyn, sewn into a cloak of the finest silk, decorated in the Cerwyn battle axe.[73]

Being hit by Dontos Hollard with a melon, the juice runs down Sansa's blue silk gown. Later, Boros Blount rips the bodice of said gown, under order of Joffrey to make her naked.[74]

Daenerys receives the traditional blue silk slippers summoning her to the Hall of a Thousand Thrones. She recalls too the beautiful boys surrounding Xaro Xhoan Daxos, who wear wisps of silk on his halls. After being refused by the Pureborn, Daenerys strips off her finery and dons a robe of loose purple silk.[75]

Davos Seaworth takes notice of warhelms crested with silken plumes among Stannis' lords.[76]

With a bard, Shae wears purple silk when Tyrion Lannister walks in. Shae is promised silks as soft as her hands by Tyrion as soon as they're done with Stannis.[77]

In the House of the Undying Ones, Daenerys sees an ancient woman in a gown of rotting pale silk, in the Qartheen manner.[78]

In the castle sept, Joffrey Baratheon fastens silk cloaks on the new members of his Kingsguard. Tyrion Lannister orders Shae not to take with her silks, samites or velvet as Lady Tanda Stokeworth's daughter's bedmaid.[79]

Davos Seaworth paces his deck, seeing the Lady of Silk among Joffrey's fleet.[9]

Tyrion Lannister's big red stallion wears crimson silk draped over his hindquarters, over mail.[80] Amid the battle, Ser Mandon Moore flashes past him, in snow-white silk.[81]

Xaro Xhoan Daxos tells Daenerys about the wife of Mathos Mallarawan, who once mocked a warlock's moth eaten robe and went mad, and now wears no clothes at all, for even fresh-washed silks make her feel as though a thousand insects crawl on her skin. Later, the cargomaster of the Myrish galley Silken Spirit opines that dragons are too dangerous at sea. In Qarth, Daenerys sees a man, presumed to be an eunuch, wearing a sweat-stained yellow silk bellyband.[10]

In the arrival of Tywin Lannister in court, Lady Tanda Stokeworth and her daughters wear matching gowns of turquoise silk and vair, while Lord Gyles Rosby coughs in a square of scarlet silk trimmed with golden lace. Upon his entering, Tywin Lannister's destrier has crimson silk bardings decorated with the lion of the Lannisters.[61]

A Storm of Swords

When meeting with Tyrion, Bronn wears a green silk cloak. Later, Tyrion and Podrick Payne walk amid the Tyrell silk and canvas pavillions in the outer ward.[82]

After the Battle of the Blackwater, Sansa Stark keeps Sandor Clegane's stained kingsguard cloak hidden in a cedar chest beneath her summer silks. When being escorted by Loras Tyrell, she wears silk.[83]

As he meets Mance Rayder, Jon sees the ragged black wool cloak he wears, with its long tears patched with red silk, as the only noteworthy garment on him. Mance tells him the silk was sewn by a wildling woman, the material coming from a wrecked cog coming from Asshai.[25]

The ships brought to Daenerys by Illyrio Mopatis carry bolts of silk, among other goods.[25]

Salladhor Saan proposes to Davos that he sails for him, on the silk and spice trade.[84]

When coming to see Tyrion, Varys wears peach-colored silk robes. When he leaves, and Shae comes out of her hiding place, she asks Tyrion if she could have her silks back, to be worn on Joffrey's wedding feast.[85]

Arya remembers Syrio Forel teaching her to be smooth as summer silk.[86]

Cersei Lannister comissions a new gown for Sansa, to be made of silk and Myrish lace.[87] Later, the gown is worn in her wedding to Tyrion Lannister.

Cersei details the plans for the wedding feast, where the middle and outer wards would be tented in silk for those who could not be accomodated inside the hall.[88]

When negotiating for the Unsullied, Kraznys mo Nakloz wears a gold fringed tokar of thin sea-green silk. Two slave girls hold a striped silk awning over his and Daenerys' heads. He tells her of Astapor's Good Masters' habit of lighting colored lanterns atop their terraces at dusk. Moving through the city, mounted guards wear cloaks of yellow silk with sewn copper disks. When her path is interrupted, she sees a man in a red silk tokar and his slaves in passing.[18]

Daenerys announces to the Good Masters she will be buying all of the Unsullied, and wears a qartheen deep purple silk gown to meet them. Heading to the meeting place, she thinks of having a Targaryen banner sewn in black silk. Among the goods she trades Kraznys mo Nakloz, are three hundred bolts of silk.[89]

When Sansa's new dress arrives, she is dressed in silk smallclothes, for her new dress is samite, cloth of silver and satin.[90]

Tyrion Lannister waits outside of King's Landing for the arrival of Prince Doran Martell in his carved litter which is said to have silk hangings, and suns on the drapes. However, Doran has sent his brother, Prince Oberyn, in his stead. The dornish lords wear silk and satin robes with flowing sleeves. Tyrion remarks that Oberyn wears a cloak of pale red silk.[91]

Jon Snow tells that Harma and the Lord of Bones raid for silk, spice, and fur.[20]

Grazdan mo Eraz wears a tokar of silk, which Drogon's flame sets ablaze.[92]

By the Twins, Arya Stark sees pavillions of wet silk.[93]

During the wedding of King Joffrey I Baratheon and Margaery Tyrell, Lord Mathis Rowan gives them a red silk tourney pavilion,[94] dancers from the Summer Isles wear robes made of bright feathers and smoky silk, and the bride wears ivory silk and Myrish lace, and skirts decorated with floral patterns picked out in seed pearls.[95]

A Feast for Crows

Lord Robin Moreland escorts the corpse of Lord Tywin Lannister from King's Landing back to Casterly Rock, wearing a cloak of crimson silk.[96]

Owners of silk clothing

Quotes

Cast off your silks and satins, and clothe your nakedness in roughspun robes. Throw away your shoes, and walk barefoot through the world, as the Father made you.[105]

—The Shepherd to his followers

A knight's a sword with a horse. The rest, the vows and the sacred oils and the lady's favors, they're silk ribbons tied round the sword. Maybe the sword's prettier with ribbons hanging off it, but it will kill you just as dead. Well, bugger your ribbons, and shove your swords up your arses. I'm the same as you. The only difference is, I don't lie about what I am. So kill me, but don't call me a murderer while you stand there telling each other that your shit don't stink. You hear me?[21]

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