The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]
| 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships | |
|---|---|
 Official event logo | |
| Venue | Esforta Arena in Hachioji |
| Location |  Hachioji, Japan |
| Date | 11–21 August 2019 |
| Competitors | 253 athletes from 39 nations |
| Website | https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/ |
Medal summary
editMedalists
edit| Event | Gold | Silver | Bronze |
|---|---|---|---|
| Men's Lead | Adam Ondra (CZE) | Alexander Megos (GER) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) |
| Men's Bouldering | Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Yannick Flohé (GER) |
| Men's Speed | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | Jan Kriz (CZE) | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) |
| Men's Combined | Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) | Jakob Schubert (AUT) | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) |
| Women's Lead | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Mia Krampl (SLO) | Ai Mori (JPN) |
| Women's Bouldering | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) | Shauna Coxsey (GBR) |
| Women's Speed | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | Di Niu (CHN) | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) |
| Women's Combined | Janja Garnbret (SLO) | Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) | Shauna Coxsey (GBR) |
Medal table
edit* Host nation (Japan)
| Rank | Nation | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Slovenia | 3 | 1 | 0 | 4 |
| 2 | Japan* | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 3 | Czech Republic | 1 | 1 | 0 | 2 |
| 4 | Italy | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| Poland | 1 | 0 | 0 | 1 | |
| 6 | Austria | 0 | 2 | 1 | 3 |
| 7 | Germany | 0 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
| 8 | China | 0 | 1 | 0 | 1 |
| 9 | Great Britain | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
| 10 | France | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
| Kazakhstan | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
| Russia | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 | |
| Totals (12 entries) | 8 | 8 | 8 | 24 | |
Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
editThe seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
| 2020 Summer Olympic qualification | |
|---|---|
| Men | Women |
|
Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) |
Janja Garnbret (SLO) |
* Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
Schedule
editAll times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
| August 2019 | 11th Sun |
12th Mon |
13th Tue |
14th Wed |
15th Thu |
16th Fri |
17th Sat |
18th Sun |
19th Mon |
20th Tue |
21st Wed | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men | B | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | C | C | |||
| Women | B | C | C | |||||||||||
Bouldering
editWomen
edit| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[7] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 5t5z 5 5 | 3t4z 7 6 | 3T3z 8 8 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 5t5z 9 9 | 2t4z 3 8 | 2T2z 4 2 |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey | 3t5z 6 9 | 0t3z 0 6 | 2T2z 6 6 |
| 4 | Ievgeniia Kazbekova | 4t5z 14 14 | 1t2z 2 3 | 1T2z 3 4 |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 3t4z 4 8 | 0t3z 0 5 | 1T2z 5 6 |
| 6 | Nanako Kura | 5t5z 12 10 | 1t2z 1 5 | 0T1z 0 1 |
Men
edit| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[8] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4t4z 8 5 | 2t4z 2 4 | 2T4z 12 20 |
| 2 | Jakob Schubert | 3t4z 5 6 | 1t4z 3 12 | 0T3z 0 10 |
| 3 | Yannick Flohé | 3t5z 5 14 | 2t4z 13 16 | 0T3z 0 13 |
| 4 | Kokoro Fujii | 4t4z 5 5 | 2t4z 5 6 | 0T3z 0 18 |
| 5 | Keita Dohi | 3t5z 6 8 | 2t4z 5 10 | 0T2z 0 9 |
| 6 | Adam Ondra | 5t5z 6 6 | 3t4z 11 7 | 0T0z 0 0 |
Lead
editWomen
edit| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[9] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.22 | 38+ | 43+ |
| 2 | Mia Krampl | 35+ | 6 | 32 | 7 | 7.35 | 34 | 39+ |
| 3 | Ai Mori | 39+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.73 | 34+ | 38+ |
| 4 | Seo Chae-hyun | 34 | 8 | 38 | 4 | 5.66 | 32 | 38+ |
| 5 | Akiyo Noguchi | 34+ | 7 | 33+ | 6 | 6.48 | 32 | 38+ |
| 6 | Jessica Pilz | 37+ | 3 | 31+ | 12 | 8.26 | 30+ | 35+ |
| 7 | Vita Lukan | 28 | 21 | 31+ | 12 | 21.18 | 35 | 30+ |
| 8 | Julia Chanourdie | 31+ | 10 | 31+ | 12 | 14.97 | 30+ | 30+ |
Men
edit| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[10] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Adam Ondra | TOP | 1 | 31 | 22 | 9.07 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 2 | Alex Megos | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 7 | 6.06 | 40+ | 33+ |
| 3 | Jakob Schubert | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 30+ | 33+ |
| 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 38 | 30 |
| 5 | Sean McColl | 31+ | 9 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 30 |
| 6 | Stefano Ghisolfi | 28+ | 18 | TOP | 1 | 8.05 | 29+ | 29+ |
| 7 | Kai Harada | 32+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.29 | 31+ | 28+ |
| 8 | Hannes Puman | 29+ | 11 | 32+ | 7 | 11.68 | 29+ | 27+ |
Speed
editWomen
editAleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]
| Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Final | ||||||||||||||||
| 1 | Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.472 | |||||||||||||||||
| 16 | MingWei Ni (CHN) | 7.819 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.337 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.008 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 8 | Patrycja Chudziak (POL) | 8.114 | |||||||||||||||||
| 9 | Elena Remizova (RUS) | fall | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.337 | ||||||||||||||||||
| YiLing Song (CHN) | fall | ||||||||||||||||||
| 4 | Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) | 8.465 | |||||||||||||||||
| 13 | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | 7.789 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) | 7.605 | ||||||||||||||||||
| YiLing Song (CHN) | 7.192 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 5 | YiLing Song (CHN) | 7.436 | |||||||||||||||||
| 12 | Anna Brożek (POL) | 7.945 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) | 7.129 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN) | 8.363 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 2 | Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 7.454 | |||||||||||||||||
| 15 | Andrea Rojas (ECU) | 8.202 | |||||||||||||||||
| Mariia Krasavina (RUS) | 7.998 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN) | 7.814 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 7 | Natalia Kałucka (POL) | 7.895 | |||||||||||||||||
| 10 | Di Niu (CHN) | 7.871 | |||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN) | 7.525 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.535 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 3 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 8.409 | Small final | ||||||||||||||||
| 14 | Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) | 10.504 | |||||||||||||||||
| Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.663 | YiLing Song (CHN) | 9.76 | ||||||||||||||||
| Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 10.188 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA) | 7.53 | ||||||||||||||||
| 6 | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) | 7.747 | |||||||||||||||||
| 11 | PeiYang Tian (CHN) | 8.080 | |||||||||||||||||
Men
editLudovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]
| Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Final | ||||||||||||||||
| 1 | Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) | 6.150 | |||||||||||||||||
| 16 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.944 | |||||||||||||||||
| Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.808 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 5.863 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 8 | Sergey Rukin (RUS) | fall | |||||||||||||||||
| 9 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) | 6.232 | |||||||||||||||||
| Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | fall | ||||||||||||||||||
| Jan Kriz (CZE) | 5.986 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 4 | Reza Alipour (IRI) | 6.281 | |||||||||||||||||
| 13 | John Brosler (USA) | 9.383 | |||||||||||||||||
| Reza Alipour (IRI) | 7.248 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.219 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 5 | Long Cao (CHN) | 6.441 | |||||||||||||||||
| 12 | Jan Kriz (CZE) | 6.136 | |||||||||||||||||
| Jan Kriz (CZE) | fall | ||||||||||||||||||
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 6.871 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 2 | Vladislav Deulin (RUS) | 5.612 | |||||||||||||||||
| 15 | QiXin Zhong (CHN) | 5.580 | |||||||||||||||||
| QiXin Zhong (CHN) | FS | ||||||||||||||||||
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | WC | ||||||||||||||||||
| 7 | Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) | fall | |||||||||||||||||
| 10 | Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | 5.908 | |||||||||||||||||
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA) | WC | ||||||||||||||||||
| Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | FS | ||||||||||||||||||
| 3 | Bassa Mawem (FRA) | 7.470 | Small final | ||||||||||||||||
| 14 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 7.013 | |||||||||||||||||
| Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) | 7.613 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) | 5.83 | ||||||||||||||||
| Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 7.500 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 5.93 | ||||||||||||||||
| 6 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) | 5.940 | |||||||||||||||||
| 11 | ZhiYong Ou (CHN) | 6.072 | |||||||||||||||||
- WC – Wildcard
- FS – False start
Combined
editClimbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]
Women
edit| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 12.00 | 6 | 13.399 | 2 | 1T2z 1 2 | 1 | Top |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 21.00 | 7 | 10.082 | 1 | 2T2z 3 3 | 3 | 40+ |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey | 42.00 | 2 | 9.225 | 3 | 1T2z 2 3 | 7 | 20 |
| 4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | 64.00 | 1 | 7.750 | 8 | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 10 |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 80.00 | 4 | 12.356 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 5 | 23+ |
| 6 | Ai Mori | 80.00 | 8 | 12.860 | 5 | 1T2z 3 7 | 2 | Top |
| 7 | Futaba Ito | 120.00 | 5 | 8.655 | 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | 4 | 27 |
| 8 | Petra Klingler | 126.00 | 3 | 8.901 | 7 | 0T2z 0 3 | 6 | 23+ |
Men
edit| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4.00 | 2 | fall | 1 | 3T3z 4 3 | 2 | 30 |
| 2 | Jakob Schubert | 35.00 | 7 | 7.208 | 5 | 0T3z 0 6 | 1 | Top |
| 3 | Rishat Khaibullin | 40.00 | 1 | 5.915 | 8 | 0T1z 0 2 | 5 | 22 |
| 4 | Kai Harada | 54.00 | 3 | 6.348 | 6 | 0T2z 0 6 | 3 | 30 |
| 5 | Meichi Narasaki | 60.00 | 5 | 6.689 | 2 | 1T3z 1 4 | 6 | 21 |
| 6 | Kokoro Fujii | 72.00 | 6 | 9.438 | 3 | 1T3z 2 6 | 4 | 29+ |
| 7 | Mickaël Mawem | 112.00 | 4 | 6.716 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 7 | 20 |
| 8 | Alexander Megos | 448.00 | 8 | 7.570 | 7 | 0T1z 0 1 | 8 | 0 |
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
- ^ a b "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. 5 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
- ^ "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
- ^ a b "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.