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Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel, Nazi Agent
Coco Chanel, high priestess of couture, created the look of the chic modern her simple and elegant designs freed women from their corsets and inspired them to crop their hair. By the 1920s, Chanel employed more than two thousand people in her workrooms, and had amassed a personal fortune. But at the start of the Second World War, Chanel closed down her couture house and went to live quietly at the Ritz, moving to Switzerland after the war. For more than half a century, Chanel's life from 1941 to 1954 has been shrouded in rumour. Neither Chanel nor her biographers have told the full story, until now. In this explosive narrative, Hal Vaughan pieces together Chanel's hidden years, from the Nazi occupation of Paris to the aftermath of the Liberation. He uncovers the truth of Chanel's anti-Semitism and long-whispered collaboration with Hitler's officials. In particular, Chanel's long relationship with 'Spatz', Baron von Dincklage, previously described as a tennis-playing playboy and German diplomat, and finally exposed here as a Nazi master spy and agent who ran an intelligence ring in the Mediterranean and reported directly to Joseph Goebbels. "Sleeping with the Enemy" tells in detail how Chanel became a German intelligence operative, Abwehr agent F-7124; how she was enlisted in spy missions, and why she evaded arrest in France after the war. It reveals the role played by Winston Churchill in her escape from retribution; and how, after a nine-year exile in Switzerland with Dincklage, and despite French investigations into her espionage activities, Coco was able to return to Paris and triumphantly reinvent herself - and rebuild the House of Chanel. As Hal Vaughan shows, far from being a heroine of France, Chanel was in fact one of its most surprising.
279 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2011
About the author
Hal Vaughan
4 books17 followersHal Vaughan has been a newsman, foreign correspondent, and documentary film producer working in Europe, the Middle East, and Southeast Asia since 1957. He served in the U.S. military in World War II and Korea and has held various posts as a U.S. Foreign Service officer. Vaughan is the author of "Doctor to the Resistance: The Heroic True Story of an American Surgeon and His Family in Occupied Paris" and "FDR’s 12 Apostles: The Spies Who Paved the Way for the Invasion of North Africa." He lives in Paris.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 346 reviews
September 30, 2011
I wish the writing was better - read almost like a long term paper - because the historical implications are fascinating. Although long known that Coco Chanel lived through WWII in luxury with her German lover at the Paris Ritz and that Winston Churchill interceded on her behalf at the end of the war to protect her from prosecution as a collaborator, Vaughan's book researches recently de-classified documents that show Chanel was in fact an Abwehr agent recruited by the Nazis through her spymaster (and 13 years younger) lover, Baron von Dincklage. Among my favorite, bizarre revelations - Hitler planned to restore Nazi-loving King Edward VIII and his wife, Wallis Simpson, to the British throne when he conquered Britain.
June 29, 2021
This book covers an important period, often breezed over, in the life of Coco Chanel. When her biographers speak of her romance with the German "officer" they usually cite the age difference, and maybe the self-absolving quote attributed to Chanel "At my age, when a handsome young man pays attention, one does not ask for his passport". This book has the most material I have seen assembled on not just this part of her life, but also on this "officer".
While the first part of the book re-tells the story of Chanel, its real contribution is documenting the pre-war activities of Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage ("Spatz"). Hal Vaughan shows that he is no ordinary "officer" but a spy, deeply plugged into the Nazi intelligence service. His charm, fluency in French and social status made him ideal for the job of gathering information and making contacts among France's elite before and during the war. He is an ideal escort for a lonely, idle, glamorous and wealthy retiree.
Other biographers have cited Chanel's war time residence at Ritz Hotel. Some describe her room, the dining facility and/or the general ambiance. Vaughan shows it to be primarily a residence for the elite among the German occupiers.
Vaughan finds no evidence showing Chanel working on behalf of the Germans nor as a Nazi-style anti- Seminte or a spy. One opportunity would have been her trip to Spain to plea with the Nazis to free her nephew. Many would have spoken for friends and family in this way if they could. In this trip she gave no relevant information. The second trip to Spain for a "peace" initiative seems bizarre, perhaps there is some motive that is lost to history; regardless, nothing substantive was given at this time either. The sponsorship of Iribe's right wing publication is given as an example of Chanel's political leanings.
Regarding her anti-Semitism there are some quoted disparaging comments on Jews. It seems that it was her Jewish partners that made the ownership arrangements to keep Chanel alive under (her) Christian ownership during the war and Chanel isn't shown to use her connections to wrest control. After the war, she deepened her association with her Jewish partners. The treatment of French Jews and of Jewish refugees was of no apparent concern to her, but neither was the plight of anyone else.
What Chanel did was make life comfortable and easy for a very well placed Nazi. She most likely helped him navigate France in ways for which there is no record. She obviously slept with him, acts for which other women paraded through the streets of France, nude with their heads shorn. Chanel clearly got off easy. Winston Churchill is noted as her savior, but it could have been Pierre Reverdy who may have had influence with the Resistance leaders who came to power after the war.
The book has very good photos, placed with the text to which they relate. There are photos of all the principle people, Chanel's striking workers, her trial, Dincklage's mother's residence and more.
While not the most exciting read, this book is important for its well footnoted documentation of this period, and in particular, the activities of the Baron von Dincklage.
While the first part of the book re-tells the story of Chanel, its real contribution is documenting the pre-war activities of Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage ("Spatz"). Hal Vaughan shows that he is no ordinary "officer" but a spy, deeply plugged into the Nazi intelligence service. His charm, fluency in French and social status made him ideal for the job of gathering information and making contacts among France's elite before and during the war. He is an ideal escort for a lonely, idle, glamorous and wealthy retiree.
Other biographers have cited Chanel's war time residence at Ritz Hotel. Some describe her room, the dining facility and/or the general ambiance. Vaughan shows it to be primarily a residence for the elite among the German occupiers.
Vaughan finds no evidence showing Chanel working on behalf of the Germans nor as a Nazi-style anti- Seminte or a spy. One opportunity would have been her trip to Spain to plea with the Nazis to free her nephew. Many would have spoken for friends and family in this way if they could. In this trip she gave no relevant information. The second trip to Spain for a "peace" initiative seems bizarre, perhaps there is some motive that is lost to history; regardless, nothing substantive was given at this time either. The sponsorship of Iribe's right wing publication is given as an example of Chanel's political leanings.
Regarding her anti-Semitism there are some quoted disparaging comments on Jews. It seems that it was her Jewish partners that made the ownership arrangements to keep Chanel alive under (her) Christian ownership during the war and Chanel isn't shown to use her connections to wrest control. After the war, she deepened her association with her Jewish partners. The treatment of French Jews and of Jewish refugees was of no apparent concern to her, but neither was the plight of anyone else.
What Chanel did was make life comfortable and easy for a very well placed Nazi. She most likely helped him navigate France in ways for which there is no record. She obviously slept with him, acts for which other women paraded through the streets of France, nude with their heads shorn. Chanel clearly got off easy. Winston Churchill is noted as her savior, but it could have been Pierre Reverdy who may have had influence with the Resistance leaders who came to power after the war.
The book has very good photos, placed with the text to which they relate. There are photos of all the principle people, Chanel's striking workers, her trial, Dincklage's mother's residence and more.
While not the most exciting read, this book is important for its well footnoted documentation of this period, and in particular, the activities of the Baron von Dincklage.
October 10, 2011
Within the first 50 pages, I loathed Chanel. I didn't even need to get to her missions on behalf of the Nazis. Her anti-semitism, homophobia, drug addiction, and just general hypocrisy . . . so talented, but so despicable.
If this book could have been written in the late 1950s or early 1960s, it would have been "explosive," as the jacket copy promises. Chanel collaborated, no doubt. Maybe the first time, she did it to save a nephew from a German POW camp. But later, she did it because she loved a German spy. After the war, she got away with it because she knew the right people (such as Churchill) or had the money to buy people's silence.
However, in 2011, these events and most of the players are so remote that the story is a little hard to follow. Doesn't help that it reads like a dossier or a deposition. Meticulously researched but no lift to the writing.
I did enjoy one anecdote about Chanel visiting a Texas ranch owned by Stanley Marcus. She hated the food and at one big dinner dumped a plate of barbecue under the table . . . onto the feet of nearby Elizabeth Arden.
If this book could have been written in the late 1950s or early 1960s, it would have been "explosive," as the jacket copy promises. Chanel collaborated, no doubt. Maybe the first time, she did it to save a nephew from a German POW camp. But later, she did it because she loved a German spy. After the war, she got away with it because she knew the right people (such as Churchill) or had the money to buy people's silence.
However, in 2011, these events and most of the players are so remote that the story is a little hard to follow. Doesn't help that it reads like a dossier or a deposition. Meticulously researched but no lift to the writing.
I did enjoy one anecdote about Chanel visiting a Texas ranch owned by Stanley Marcus. She hated the food and at one big dinner dumped a plate of barbecue under the table . . . onto the feet of nearby Elizabeth Arden.
January 23, 2016
Hal Vaughan’s meticulously researched and documented book provides a view of the life of Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel. He traces her life from her early years as an abandoned child who was raised in an orphanage, to a life of luxury as the world famous designer of women’s haute couture clothing and perfume. But most intriguing is his documentation of her activities and associations during World War II in France. It has long been rumored that Chanel was a Nazi collaborator, and the evidence Vaughan reveals undeniably confirms this long buried fact. Chanel’s high placed connections and vast wealth contributed to her ability to escape prosecution after the war. This is a fascinating book that sheds light on the life of a fashion icon and an unforgettable period in history.
September 1, 2016
A very easy read (especially with the help of a narrator like Susan Denaker) detailing the life of Coco Chanel, one of the most famous designers in the world, especially during the WWII era, during which she was a Nazi sympathizer and collaborator. It doesn't surprise me to learn that she did what she did in order to get by; we're talking about the rich and powerful, people who routinely rubbed shoulders with leading politicians and the like. The 1% of the mid-1900s, if you will.
My mind drew a comparison between Nazi sympathizers and Death Eaters (particularly the Malfoys) because when the war inevitably came, they picked the side that they thought would offer them the best chance of continuing their lives as they'd known pre-war. Coco did the same thing. She lived in luxury at the Ritz and seemed not to care a whit for anyone outside her circle of friends. She became the paramour of a German officer and then after the war everyone scrambled to say What? I did no such thing! It's the Malfoys pretending to be Imperiused, I'm telling you.
What really interests me is how even after all this time, knowing what we know about Chanel, no one really cares to openly condemn her. The book touched on it briefly at the end, suggesting that friends forgave her (particularly after she'd passed), but it leaves me feeling uneasy. I'm not huge on grudges, but... I don't know. Something about the whole thing just doesn't sit right with me. I was also a bit disappointed that Jackie Kennedy was only mentioned in the epilogue, when that bloodstained suit is nearly as iconic as Chanel herself. Overall a fascinating look into the past.
My mind drew a comparison between Nazi sympathizers and Death Eaters (particularly the Malfoys) because when the war inevitably came, they picked the side that they thought would offer them the best chance of continuing their lives as they'd known pre-war. Coco did the same thing. She lived in luxury at the Ritz and seemed not to care a whit for anyone outside her circle of friends. She became the paramour of a German officer and then after the war everyone scrambled to say What? I did no such thing! It's the Malfoys pretending to be Imperiused, I'm telling you.
What really interests me is how even after all this time, knowing what we know about Chanel, no one really cares to openly condemn her. The book touched on it briefly at the end, suggesting that friends forgave her (particularly after she'd passed), but it leaves me feeling uneasy. I'm not huge on grudges, but... I don't know. Something about the whole thing just doesn't sit right with me. I was also a bit disappointed that Jackie Kennedy was only mentioned in the epilogue, when that bloodstained suit is nearly as iconic as Chanel herself. Overall a fascinating look into the past.
January 28, 2012
I was excited to read this biography of Coco Chanel because I heard it was filled with juicy history and fashion. However, I found it a little too dense on the history side, and lacking on the personal side. At many times throughout the book, I felt like I was reading a book about WWII, not Coco Chanel. I do realize that the World War was hugely influential on Chanel, but I still felt Vaughan could have spent more time on her. There were a number of interesting facts, but I got bored and it was difficult to finish this short book. I would have liked to read more about Chanel's relationship with individual Nazis, rather than the history of the Nazis themselves. I also would like to have heard more about her competitive relationship with Elsa Schiapparelli - for a woman who is one of the largest fashion icons in history, I want to know more about fashion!
Favorite quotes:
"If you're born without wings, do nothing to preclude them from growing" (Chanel, 3)
"I loved him or I thought I loved him, which amounts to the same thing" (Chanel, 39)
Favorite quotes:
"If you're born without wings, do nothing to preclude them from growing" (Chanel, 3)
"I loved him or I thought I loved him, which amounts to the same thing" (Chanel, 39)
October 1, 2012
Walking fashion faux pas that I am, even I know what extactly Chanel means in the terms of fashion and scent. Which is why I read this book.
I want a little more meat. I have no doubt that Vaughan's thesis is correct; I just want more meat. Part of this is because Chanel, like her famous perfume, is elusive. She is spoken about rather than speaking too.
The book does raise a question though, unintentional though it seems, how much of Chanel's betrayal was based on a real desire to save her nephew, who is basically her son in all but blood? Is that an understandable betrayal? Should her fater have been something other than what it was?
I want a little more meat. I have no doubt that Vaughan's thesis is correct; I just want more meat. Part of this is because Chanel, like her famous perfume, is elusive. She is spoken about rather than speaking too.
The book does raise a question though, unintentional though it seems, how much of Chanel's betrayal was based on a real desire to save her nephew, who is basically her son in all but blood? Is that an understandable betrayal? Should her fater have been something other than what it was?
September 13, 2017
I remain conflicted in regards to my feelings about Coco Chanel, the brand. This book, however, makes it impossible for me to have any admiration for the woman. Coco was an anti-Semite, a homophobe, an addict and a person who was willing to compromise anything to maintain her entitled presence, even as those living in her beloved Paris and France bore the humiliation of the German occupation and starvation. I cannot believe that the actions of Chanel were simply a circumstance of the men who influenced her life and fortune.
This book also provides a unique retrospective on European and American history and culture during the post WWI and WWII eras.
This book also provides a unique retrospective on European and American history and culture during the post WWI and WWII eras.
June 11, 2012
If you don't know much background on Chanel, or much of what she did for fashion then this book is not somewhere to start.
If however you do know a substantial amount on the woman I think this book is quite enjoyable. It gives a non-judgmental insight to her politics, neither praising nor bashing them and stays neutral, and for the content of the book I feel is important.
The book is well researched, and it doesn't read like a trashy 'celeb gossip' magazine, it's factual without being too dense, and also reveals a few things that wouldn't have been known about the women.
If you are expecting a lot about fashion itself, then I'd recommend reading a different book about her work. And to read with an as open as possible mind as she can only be described as a very 'colourful' character or as the woman herself put it 'Gentleness doesn't get work done unless you happen to be a hen laying eggs.'
If however you do know a substantial amount on the woman I think this book is quite enjoyable. It gives a non-judgmental insight to her politics, neither praising nor bashing them and stays neutral, and for the content of the book I feel is important.
The book is well researched, and it doesn't read like a trashy 'celeb gossip' magazine, it's factual without being too dense, and also reveals a few things that wouldn't have been known about the women.
If you are expecting a lot about fashion itself, then I'd recommend reading a different book about her work. And to read with an as open as possible mind as she can only be described as a very 'colourful' character or as the woman herself put it 'Gentleness doesn't get work done unless you happen to be a hen laying eggs.'
October 8, 2011
In this book, Vaughan sets out to prove that Coco Chanel --- the famous Paris couturier who revolutionized 20th century women's fashions and created a perfume that remains a popular icon today (Chanel No. 5) --- collaborated with the Germans during their occupation of France (1940-1944).
Chanel, like many other Parisians, had fled Paris as the Germans approached its environs the second week of June 1940 for the South of France (where she maintained a residence). Several months later, once the situation in France had stabilized, Chanel returned to Paris. Thanks to her lover, Hans-Gunther von Dincklage, who was a German military intelligence officer, Chanel was able to maintain her private suite at the Ritz Hotel, one of the hotels that the Germans had set aside only for "special guests" (e.g. top, influential government and Nazi Party officials like Hermann Goering, Paul Joseph Goebbels [Hitler's Propaganda Minister], and several other authorities who formed part of the "New Order" in Europe at that time.
What became clear as I read deeply into this book is that Chanel, who had long harbored an anti-Jewish bias (an affliction that was not unusual among many of the friends in high society that Chanel had made throughout her life --- e.g. the Duke of Westminster, a relation of the royal family, close friend of Winston Churchill, and Chanel's one-time lover) and held pro-German views before the war.
Coco Chanel was a single-minded woman known for speaking her mind on a variety of subjects. After she was able to obtain the release of one of her nephews from a POW camp in Germany, Chanel sought to gain full control of her perfume and cosmetic company, from which she had maintained a 10% holding interest with the Wertheimers, French Jews who held the majority interest, per an agreement both parties had made in 1924. (It was this agreement which helped to solidify Chanel's position in the fashion world and enhance her wealth exponentially.) Despite the Aryanization of all businesses in France which had been under partial or full Jewish ownership, Chanel was not successful in her bid to achieve full control of her business network.
Notwithstanding this setback, Chanel did enter into a relationship with the Germans which seems to indicate that she acted as an agent in the Abwehr (military intelligence), making trips to Portugal, Berlin, and Spain between 1941 and 1944. Apparently, on one of her trips to Madrid (ostensibly to bolster the appeal of Chanel products in Spain - in actuality, the SS underwrote her travelling expenses), she entered into contact with British Embassy officials and left them with a letter to be given to Winston Churchill (an old friend from prewar days), offering her services as an intermediary to help broker a peace between Germany and the Allies. Up to this time, very few people knew that Chanel had an extensive relationship with the Germans. That changed when a old friend of Chanel's --- (Vera, a member of the British aristocracy who had married an Italian cavalry officer and had lived in Italy; Chanel had helped get Vera free from German custody, hoping that she would assist her on her mission in Madrid) --- who had accompanied her to Spain, managed to get away from Chanel and find sanctuary with the British ambassador.
The book was informative, if at times, sloppily written. (The author's command of facts sometimes left a lot to be desired.) And what was perhaps more interesting was how Coco Chanel, despite being twice called before a court of justice in France shortly after the war to account for her wartime activities, got off scot-free! Evidently, it was in the interest of a number of parties (e.g. the British, a number of key people in DeGaulle's first government, and ironically, the Wertheimers) not to have Coco Chanel's name and reputation sullied. That would have made for a much more compelling and engaging story.
Chanel, like many other Parisians, had fled Paris as the Germans approached its environs the second week of June 1940 for the South of France (where she maintained a residence). Several months later, once the situation in France had stabilized, Chanel returned to Paris. Thanks to her lover, Hans-Gunther von Dincklage, who was a German military intelligence officer, Chanel was able to maintain her private suite at the Ritz Hotel, one of the hotels that the Germans had set aside only for "special guests" (e.g. top, influential government and Nazi Party officials like Hermann Goering, Paul Joseph Goebbels [Hitler's Propaganda Minister], and several other authorities who formed part of the "New Order" in Europe at that time.
What became clear as I read deeply into this book is that Chanel, who had long harbored an anti-Jewish bias (an affliction that was not unusual among many of the friends in high society that Chanel had made throughout her life --- e.g. the Duke of Westminster, a relation of the royal family, close friend of Winston Churchill, and Chanel's one-time lover) and held pro-German views before the war.
Coco Chanel was a single-minded woman known for speaking her mind on a variety of subjects. After she was able to obtain the release of one of her nephews from a POW camp in Germany, Chanel sought to gain full control of her perfume and cosmetic company, from which she had maintained a 10% holding interest with the Wertheimers, French Jews who held the majority interest, per an agreement both parties had made in 1924. (It was this agreement which helped to solidify Chanel's position in the fashion world and enhance her wealth exponentially.) Despite the Aryanization of all businesses in France which had been under partial or full Jewish ownership, Chanel was not successful in her bid to achieve full control of her business network.
Notwithstanding this setback, Chanel did enter into a relationship with the Germans which seems to indicate that she acted as an agent in the Abwehr (military intelligence), making trips to Portugal, Berlin, and Spain between 1941 and 1944. Apparently, on one of her trips to Madrid (ostensibly to bolster the appeal of Chanel products in Spain - in actuality, the SS underwrote her travelling expenses), she entered into contact with British Embassy officials and left them with a letter to be given to Winston Churchill (an old friend from prewar days), offering her services as an intermediary to help broker a peace between Germany and the Allies. Up to this time, very few people knew that Chanel had an extensive relationship with the Germans. That changed when a old friend of Chanel's --- (Vera, a member of the British aristocracy who had married an Italian cavalry officer and had lived in Italy; Chanel had helped get Vera free from German custody, hoping that she would assist her on her mission in Madrid) --- who had accompanied her to Spain, managed to get away from Chanel and find sanctuary with the British ambassador.
The book was informative, if at times, sloppily written. (The author's command of facts sometimes left a lot to be desired.) And what was perhaps more interesting was how Coco Chanel, despite being twice called before a court of justice in France shortly after the war to account for her wartime activities, got off scot-free! Evidently, it was in the interest of a number of parties (e.g. the British, a number of key people in DeGaulle's first government, and ironically, the Wertheimers) not to have Coco Chanel's name and reputation sullied. That would have made for a much more compelling and engaging story.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
January 27, 2016
I found this book riveting and finished it very quickly. It gives a clearer than usual picture of a complicated woman driven almost entirely by self-interest.
Most of what I've read to date about Coco Chanel is overly positive or overly negative, but this book represents her more as a shrewd and very lucky human being driven by self-interest and operating under extremely difficult circumstances. She's shallow, cunning, and fascinating. She also contributed greatly to making women's clothing wearable. There are things about her to admire and other aspects of her that are revolting.
It's uncomfortable for people today to realize that antisemitism was as strong in France as it was in Germany; Chanel was certainly not alone in her feelings against Jews and her support of a negotiated peace with Germany despite the human cost for hated minorities. This view was widely shared at the time in France. Furthermore, it was shared in England and America as well: by American Joseph Kennedy, then Ambassador to England, and the Duke of Windsor (Edward VIII, who abdicated the English throne to marry Wallis Simpson just before the war). It is unclear (to me at least) if those people were truly aware of the death camps and Gestapo methods at the time, but it's likely.
As to the writing, although generally highly readable and containing an appropriate level of detail and research, the author sometimes attempts to stretch out the dramatic action, leading to repetition and a jumpy sense of time and the order of events.
Overall, I thought it was a great read.
Most of what I've read to date about Coco Chanel is overly positive or overly negative, but this book represents her more as a shrewd and very lucky human being driven by self-interest and operating under extremely difficult circumstances. She's shallow, cunning, and fascinating. She also contributed greatly to making women's clothing wearable. There are things about her to admire and other aspects of her that are revolting.
It's uncomfortable for people today to realize that antisemitism was as strong in France as it was in Germany; Chanel was certainly not alone in her feelings against Jews and her support of a negotiated peace with Germany despite the human cost for hated minorities. This view was widely shared at the time in France. Furthermore, it was shared in England and America as well: by American Joseph Kennedy, then Ambassador to England, and the Duke of Windsor (Edward VIII, who abdicated the English throne to marry Wallis Simpson just before the war). It is unclear (to me at least) if those people were truly aware of the death camps and Gestapo methods at the time, but it's likely.
As to the writing, although generally highly readable and containing an appropriate level of detail and research, the author sometimes attempts to stretch out the dramatic action, leading to repetition and a jumpy sense of time and the order of events.
Overall, I thought it was a great read.
October 28, 2011
This book is a bit difficult for the reader who is not familiar with all the 1930s and 1940s characters who appear. I mean, who has heard of Boy Capel? It could have be much better written and it shows. I found it annoying that photos weren't placed where they should be in the text [they were scanned in, so it ought not be a problem] and then the author makes a big deal about how Chanel looked at a certain time and doesn't include a photo of her.
Not sure if I will finish, she was a cold sort - loved the Germans, in fact, loved anyone who could help her - though she got snookered by the brothers who bought her perfume rights. Quite legal and she should have known better, as she was a smart woman.
A bit of a slog at times.
Not sure if I will finish, she was a cold sort - loved the Germans, in fact, loved anyone who could help her - though she got snookered by the brothers who bought her perfume rights. Quite legal and she should have known better, as she was a smart woman.
A bit of a slog at times.
May 28, 2012
Reads like a boring textbook, too dense on dates, titles , names and nicknames - this was one of the most uninteresting non-fiction books I've read. Considering the subject matter, this should have been a compelling story of occupied WWII France. I'm not sure why the author had to jump around within the historic timeline, attempting to foreshadow characters and events. His style of storytelling only served to confuse and bore this reader. I also found that the title of this book was far more sensational than the facts that were presented. If I was reading this thesis, I would ask the author to strengthen his argument - so many "facts" seem very speculative or from second-hand sources, which is probably why Coco was never found guilty of being a "horizontal" collaborator.
August 31, 2011
I couldn't wait to get this book out of the library and then, when I received it, I couldn't wait to finish it. What a disappointment! Author, Hal Vaughan, writes about Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel being a collaborator for the Nazis during World War II. I struggled to get through it because the writing is plodding and boring. There's a dearth of dense details many of which he repeats over and over again. What was supposed to be revealing about Chanel's spy missions is a big nothing.
June 12, 2019
Tedious. And I certainly would never wear Chanel No. 5 again
May 28, 2022
Stories of what self-interested people were willing to do in desperate situations, and with whom they were willing to cooperate.
February 5, 2024
So fascinating, but honestly, why was this never in the public? 2010-201 news stations, or the internet, never mentioned this. With the documents that have come out, and proof, how was this swept under the rug? To keep a brand? Save face? Regardless this was such an interesting read, so much history.
October 17, 2023
1.60 / 5
chanel girl, i am so glad you are dead.
your company, though, is keeping your genocidal legacy alive by supporting a fascist ethnostate.
- • -
it feels wrong to rate this, but my rating is solely on the writing style which feels like unraveling a dossier more than reading a book.
chanel girl, i am so glad you are dead.
your company, though, is keeping your genocidal legacy alive by supporting a fascist ethnostate.
- • -
it feels wrong to rate this, but my rating is solely on the writing style which feels like unraveling a dossier more than reading a book.
June 2, 2012
Borrowed it from the library and actually didn't make it to the end before it was due back (fell asleep every night after about 10 pages!). It was interesting, but the author assumes the reader has a firm knowledge of the events of the second World War and the politics of the Nazi Party. The portrait of Chanel is disturbing - allegations of Nazi collaboration aside, her anti-semitic and homophobic comments are more than enough to cast a dark shadow.
The book is best for someone who wants to delve deep into the historical connections between Chanel and the Nazi Party. It's not light reading. Everyone else (including me) will probably get enough from reading the Coles Notes version in this NYT review of the book: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/04/boo...
The book is best for someone who wants to delve deep into the historical connections between Chanel and the Nazi Party. It's not light reading. Everyone else (including me) will probably get enough from reading the Coles Notes version in this NYT review of the book: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/09/04/boo...
April 12, 2024
Interesting bio. Chanel knew so many of the WWII major players like Churchill. Her Catholic orphanage upbringing instilled an abundance of antisemitism and a drive to be successful. Copious use of morphine.
March 7, 2023
Coco Chanel’s rags to riches story of her traitorous life
Overall this was a very good biography about iconic clothes designer, Coco Chanel. It specifically focused on her collaboration with the German Nazi occupiers of France during World War 2, but it was an overall biography as well. The book was very readable and informative with a generous number of photos to accompany it throughout.
There are some weaknesses to this book. It started out slowly immediately highlighting Chanel’s traitorous relations in the War — something that was jarring to read right from the start — with very little substantiated facts (at first) to support these assertions. But after that rough start, the book became more biographical in following a chronological approach to her life story. This leads to the next flaw. The book didn’t have much about Chanel’s childhood, which I feel is a pivotal time explaining a lot about her actions and personality later in her life. For an excellent read about this period, I suggest reading Joshua Zeitz’s wonderful book, Flapper, which provides a nuanced section about Chanel’s early life growing up in poverty, eventually being taken under the wing of a religious school. She played loose with the truth about her early life, a characteristic she displayed with aplomb through her long life. Truth was a vague concept to her, it was the drama of her story which most appealed to her.
In my view, while collaborating with Nazi’s isn’t a high point in her life story, the facts leading to that moment were in keeping with Coco Chanel’s personal style. She began it successfully getting her nephew released from a Nazi prison camp after he was captured fighting against them early into World War 2. The Nazis who were no fools, used this playing card to extort her services in other ways to further their cause. Later, she unsuccessfully sought the Nazi’s help to rid herself of a contract with her Jewish partners who owned 90% of her hugely profitable perfumery. She was an actively practicing antisemite at this time, something common for those days. Ultimately, she was never convicted of wrong doing as a collaborator and never even went to trial about it, but the evidence of her involvement is tough to ignore. She was masterful in using power players to her advantage, and no one less than her long time friend, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, got the charges and the investigation against her dismissed.
What Chanel accomplished in her lifetime was truly miraculous — a true rags to riches story — one where she probably became the world’s most successful and influential designers of the 20th century. She was certainly colorful and was never dull.
Overall, I would give this book a 4+. But because this rating system doesn’t use scale, I give it a 4.
Overall this was a very good biography about iconic clothes designer, Coco Chanel. It specifically focused on her collaboration with the German Nazi occupiers of France during World War 2, but it was an overall biography as well. The book was very readable and informative with a generous number of photos to accompany it throughout.
There are some weaknesses to this book. It started out slowly immediately highlighting Chanel’s traitorous relations in the War — something that was jarring to read right from the start — with very little substantiated facts (at first) to support these assertions. But after that rough start, the book became more biographical in following a chronological approach to her life story. This leads to the next flaw. The book didn’t have much about Chanel’s childhood, which I feel is a pivotal time explaining a lot about her actions and personality later in her life. For an excellent read about this period, I suggest reading Joshua Zeitz’s wonderful book, Flapper, which provides a nuanced section about Chanel’s early life growing up in poverty, eventually being taken under the wing of a religious school. She played loose with the truth about her early life, a characteristic she displayed with aplomb through her long life. Truth was a vague concept to her, it was the drama of her story which most appealed to her.
In my view, while collaborating with Nazi’s isn’t a high point in her life story, the facts leading to that moment were in keeping with Coco Chanel’s personal style. She began it successfully getting her nephew released from a Nazi prison camp after he was captured fighting against them early into World War 2. The Nazis who were no fools, used this playing card to extort her services in other ways to further their cause. Later, she unsuccessfully sought the Nazi’s help to rid herself of a contract with her Jewish partners who owned 90% of her hugely profitable perfumery. She was an actively practicing antisemite at this time, something common for those days. Ultimately, she was never convicted of wrong doing as a collaborator and never even went to trial about it, but the evidence of her involvement is tough to ignore. She was masterful in using power players to her advantage, and no one less than her long time friend, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, got the charges and the investigation against her dismissed.
What Chanel accomplished in her lifetime was truly miraculous — a true rags to riches story — one where she probably became the world’s most successful and influential designers of the 20th century. She was certainly colorful and was never dull.
Overall, I would give this book a 4+. But because this rating system doesn’t use scale, I give it a 4.
February 27, 2023
Coco Chanel is known as a fashion icon. She is respected for her vision, brilliance, and the way she changed the world of fashion. Nowadays, every woman in the world proudly owns or wishes to own a piece of the Chanel Collection. The famous CC logo is a sign of a classic style. But during the grim years of WWII, rumors were spread about her involvement with the Nazis. Was Coco "in bed with the enemy"? At last, Hal Vaughan reveals the truth.
Coco is best described as a cat. In her 87 years, she had lived an adventurous life. From a poor upbringing to building a fashion empire and making the world's most powerful friends, Coco has faced life's major ups and downs. She has left a grand mark in WWII history that no one talks about. Coco was a cold opportunist, and an amoral, ethically challenged survivor who had clawed her way to the top, but the world remembers and admires Coco for her exquisite fashion style.
Detailed biography that covers Chanel's early years, but mainly focuses on her life during and after WWII. I wouldn't say I've learned anything particularly new from this book, but it did bring clarity to her involvement with the Nazis including her long time german lover. Overall this book is a good look into the past.
Coco is best described as a cat. In her 87 years, she had lived an adventurous life. From a poor upbringing to building a fashion empire and making the world's most powerful friends, Coco has faced life's major ups and downs. She has left a grand mark in WWII history that no one talks about. Coco was a cold opportunist, and an amoral, ethically challenged survivor who had clawed her way to the top, but the world remembers and admires Coco for her exquisite fashion style.
Detailed biography that covers Chanel's early years, but mainly focuses on her life during and after WWII. I wouldn't say I've learned anything particularly new from this book, but it did bring clarity to her involvement with the Nazis including her long time german lover. Overall this book is a good look into the past.
September 29, 2011
This was full of factual information, but the narrative DID read like a textbook, as others have said. Despite the wealth of information Vaughan presents, I'm still not convinced Chanel was who he wants the reader to believe she was. Having read other Chanel biographies, I would say this is a good companion because it addresses a controversy many other biographies are afraid to explore, or rather don't have enough information. Having said that, I wouldn't recommend this to someone looking for a juicy biography of Coco Chanel.
August 9, 2012
I'm on record as thinking that biographers shouldn't get too cozy with their subjects. But they shouldn't sneer at them either, and here, Vaughan is sneering at Chanel. And maybe that's justifiable — her involvement as a collaborator with the Nazis seems pretty clear. But it gets in the way of his telling the story.
Other problems: Vaughan repeats himself. Also, he takes a long time to get to the central part of the story.
Other problems: Vaughan repeats himself. Also, he takes a long time to get to the central part of the story.
October 19, 2011
I'm not sure why I decided to read this, since I read a Chanel biography in the past and found her to be a fairly repulsive character. This book only confirms it. But I've been reading a lot of books with pre-WWII and wartime settings. So, the question is why I finished it--not only is the subject repellent, but the writing is somewhat disjointed.
Currently reading
March 27, 2021only very few people know about coco chanel's antisemitic past, and many still hail her as a cultural icon despite her being a nazi agent. (the other day, an acquaintance of mine literally called chanel her "idol".) i'm hoping to educate myself through this book and see past the "mainstream history" that most of us are familiar with.
October 11, 2021
brief synopsis: Coco Chanel was not only antisemitic, but also undoubtedly a Nazi residing in occupied Paris during World War II.
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takeaway: don’t buy Chanel- enough designers out there who weren’t Nazis.
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regarding style, not the best. I found several podcasts on the subject to be more engaging.
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takeaway: don’t buy Chanel- enough designers out there who weren’t Nazis.
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regarding style, not the best. I found several podcasts on the subject to be more engaging.
April 8, 2014
Don't do it. Great research. Great facts. VERY boring.
January 23, 2021
Takeaway #1: Chanel was an extraordinarily talented designer but a person without principles or any moral compass. She was dependent on her poorly chosen lovers for the capitol to begin her wildly successful brand, but her upbringing as an poor orphan likely has much to do with her desperation for male attention at any cost. She seemed to be a really horrible person truthfully - a Nazi agent, a collaborator, a woman who took advantage of others and then didn't have the wiliness not to be taken advantage of by others. I think she would be something like Ivanka Trump today - only Chanel was certainly more original and more talented.
Takeaway #2: Europe was a hot mess during the rise of the Nazis. It wasn't the way that contemporary movies about WWII portray Europe as everyone united against the Nazis. Not at all. When Hitler invaded Poland, people called it the "phony war" and thought it would just blow over. It reminds me of the chaos during the past year under Trump in response to COVID - denial and belligerence.
Takeaway #3: The life of a spy - contrary to Hollywood's depictions - is boring. Lots of memos about who does what when and with who... decades spent burrowing into a community just to get some info about military ships or whatnot. Lots of collecting data, not really much action.
All in all, it was a very interesting read, although I felt like somehow the writing could have been a bit more interesting, more in the style of Erik Larsen. However, I appreciated Vaughan's meticulous research and documentation. I would have liked to have heard more from Chanel's niece, assuming that she isn't as horrible as her aunt was.
Takeaway #2: Europe was a hot mess during the rise of the Nazis. It wasn't the way that contemporary movies about WWII portray Europe as everyone united against the Nazis. Not at all. When Hitler invaded Poland, people called it the "phony war" and thought it would just blow over. It reminds me of the chaos during the past year under Trump in response to COVID - denial and belligerence.
Takeaway #3: The life of a spy - contrary to Hollywood's depictions - is boring. Lots of memos about who does what when and with who... decades spent burrowing into a community just to get some info about military ships or whatnot. Lots of collecting data, not really much action.
All in all, it was a very interesting read, although I felt like somehow the writing could have been a bit more interesting, more in the style of Erik Larsen. However, I appreciated Vaughan's meticulous research and documentation. I would have liked to have heard more from Chanel's niece, assuming that she isn't as horrible as her aunt was.
January 10, 2025
This is an extremely well-researched and well-written account of the vile collaborationist Coco Chanel. At the very least, she should have forfeited her empire, but it wouldn't have been a tragedy had she rotted in jail or been executed for her crimes. The French aristocracy of this period were selfish bigots who would feel anyone or anything out in order to avoid being inconvenienced. Chanel lied regularly, all the while loudly condemning Jews and homosexuals (while continuing to use those same people to further her business interests. Chanel did not come from privilege and, as a result, "never had enough." She was jealous of competitors and always felt she was being cheated. (Once, after a general strike closed her salon when workers wanted higher wages and paid vacations, she fired her two thousand of them and closed the business to spite them.) She was a morally bankrupt and dangerous woman. How many people suffered or died because of information she passed on to the Nazis. That she was given a "free pass" at the end of the war (in spite of some trials) is an affront to decency. As we see in our current society, there are no rules or repercussions to illegal and immoral behavior by the rich. She was cavalier in her lies and arrogant in her defense. The number of people who should have been held accountable for their actions during the War and slithered away (including the Duke and Duchess of Windsor) is appealing. These people stood for nothing, certainly not their country. She was a whore of the Reich who should rot in hell.
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