Tai Wai, a small town closely connected with Sha Tin, nestles in the shadow of Lion Rock. The hamlet's history dates back to the Ming dynasty when indigenous people built a cluster of fortified villages and called it Chik Chuen Wai. Owing to its close proximity to Shing Mun River, Tai Wai was a glorious sprawl of fertile paddy fields, with urban development slowly encroaching only in the past 30 years.
Today, the original walled village remains almost unchanged, but next to this historical monument is a sprawl of low-density residential buildings. And where there are people, there are restaurants. There's still an array of local independent eateries such as wonton noodle shops and dessert houses, and Shanghainese, Japanese and Thai are also popular choices.
But a couple of establishments have stood the test of time to become iconic destinations for foodies. Fung Lam Restaurant is the grande dame of Tai Wai. Established and run by the Pang family half a century ago, it started off as a family restaurant with six tables in the former Sha Tin old town. In 1977, it moved to its current 400-seat location. Owner Pang Chien-ting, 82, can be found every day holding court behind the cashier counter as he oversees a team of 30 familiar faces who have all worked for him for more than 10 years.
Dining there now is like taking a trip back in time to old Hong Kong. Sturdy teak fixtures such as the chairs, tables, staircases and panels, and the stone fish pond were built 30 years ago by local craftsmen, whose skills are now hard to find.
Signature dishes include chilli pepper prawns, fried stuffed tofu with shrimp paste and braised duck with yam. Don't miss the dumplings in sweet walnut soup, which is made every day with freshly ground nuts.
Pang says: 'My head chef has been with us for 40 years. Except for seasonal dishes, we don't change much on the menu. These are all traditional Cantonese dishes that my customers come especially to eat. Our raw ingredients are fresh and basic, but it takes the skill of a chef to mix them and create new combinations. This is what differentiates us from other restaurants.'
Fung Lam has built a reputation for its friendly service as well as its food. Regular customers are treated like old friends and Pang says his oldest guests are now coming in with their grandchildren.
