A byword for crowded poverty even in Indonesia, Madura's infertile soil has led to an estimated 10 million Madurese migrants leaving the island, with only around 4 million left to eke out a living from subsistence agriculture (corn), tobacco and cloves, salt panning, fishing and cattle farming. A larger contrast to the largely lush and fertile Java next door is hard to imagine.

Those geographic and climatic reasons, together with a lack of well known sights, make Madura as off the beaten path for travellers as it gets in this part of Indonesia.

History has not dealt the people of Madura a kind card. The island was in an almost perpetual state of conflict, with different parts of the island siding with different kingdoms in various medieval Javanese conflicts. In the colonial period, the rulers of east and west Madura were often allied with the Dutch and, in return for protection, provided natural resources and troops. In World War II, the Madurese suffered enormously under the Japanese.

The opening of the Suramadu Bridge in mid-2009 might just begin to change the off the beaten path nature of Madura, though. There were large investment plans mooted and many of these focused on developing Madura as a tourist destination from 2010. Only time will tell but the omens look good for an island that has had little go in its favour for so long. But through early 2015, there were no signs of big industrial projects coming to Madura.

Tales and legends have developed around Madurese women who are famous throughout Indonesia for one thing: secretive sex techniques known as goyang Madura. These seem to involve clenching vaginal muscles in a way not unlike Kegel exercises, assisted with herbal preparations like the tongkat Madura (Madura stick) that were a minor hit in Japan a few years back.

The local language is Madurese, but standard Bahasa Indonesia is widely spoken. You will find a little bit of English spoken and understood at some of the hotels and amongst well educated younger people, but that's about it.

Shuttle buses (locally called colts) ply the main south coast and north coast routes from the port at Kamal and the bridge exit point. They run all day from dawn until about 10PM.

• Bull Racing (Kerapan Sapi). This is the most famous attraction in Madura. Every August and September town and villages across Madura hold races and the winners compete for the Presidential Trophy in the grand finals in Pamekasan in late September. Races take place over a 100-metre course and are over in about 10 seconds. The jockey is usually a young boy who shows great control of the large bulls while balanced almost impossibly on a simple wooden sledge. This is a major event in Madura and it is taken very seriously indeed with all sorts of intrigue surrounding the raising of champion bulls, the use of mysterious herbal tonics and the harnessing of dark magic to cripple opponents. A very exotic and colourful affair.
• The hills of Madura and marvel at the skill of local farmers who find a living here. Traditional crops you will see are corn, tobacco and cloves. A good area to head for is the central road which links Pagantenan (about 15 km north of Pamekasan) and Gulukguluk (the centre of tobacco growing).

• Snorkel off the north coast or in glorious isolation on the Kangean Islands.
• Pick mangoes. During the right season you will find hundreds of mangoes under the trees. They are great. Enjoy them.

• Madura is famous for its batik of deep blue, red and gold. You will find outlets in Sumenep (especially) and Bangkalan.
• Jamu Madura. Traditional herbal aphrodisiacs for men and women. Many streetside outlets, you cannot miss them.

Simple warungs and street-side vendors are the go in Madura. Whether you are looking for a seated restaurant or happy with street stalls, the key is to follow the local crowds. Although Sumenep probably has the best selection of warungs and simple restaurants on the island.

The Madura-style satay is probably the most popular satay variant in Indonesia. Madurese dishes are often saltier than other East Javanese foods. Specialities include:

• Bebek songkem, a Madura deep fried duck.
• Campur lorjuk, a Pamekasan solen-type bivalve soup.
• Kaldu kokot, a thick beef soup with beef bones cooked together with green peanuts. It is served with "lontong", white steamed rice wrapped in banana leaf, it is normally quite spicy.
• Rujak is made by mixing vegetables such as cucumber, and green peanuts with peanut sauces and cassava chips. For people living on Java, it's simply "Indonesian salad".
• Sate ayam Madura, a chicken satay with peanut sauce.
• Sate kambing Madura, a spicy goat satay with sweet soy sauce.
• Soto Madura, a savory coconut milk beef soup with rice.
• Tajin Sobih, a traditional Bangkalan porridge.

Water and plenty of it. This is a harsh, hot, and dry climate.

The Madurese are devout Muslims and while alcohol is not illegal, it is best avoided out of respect.

A government survey in October 2009 found just 31 accommodation options (many of them informal) on an island of 4,250 sq km. There are plans to change this though as part of the general development of the island after the opening of the Suramadu Bridge. Firm expressions of interest have come from several star-rated hotel groups to build properties in Bangkalan and Sumenep.

This is an inherently conservative island and the Madurese are pious Muslims. Many other Indonesians (unfairly) regard the Madurese as kasar (coarse or unrefined) and hot-tempered.

Madura receives relatively few foreign visitors and you are therefore likely to be a source of some curiosity. Behaviour and dress should be appropriately conservative. If you make an effort to understand and respect the Madurese, you will find them welcoming and people with a finely developed sense of humour.

The island of Madura has four telephone area codes.

• Bangkalan 031 (same as Surabaya)
• Pamekasan 0324
• Sampang 0323
• Sumenep 0328

The internet has been slow to penetrate and spread in Madura but that is changing and you will find options (often very slow) in Sumenep especially.

• Back to Surabaya and access to the main areas of interest in the East Java region.
• A really adventurous option is to travel 6-10 hours by boat to the Kangean Islands, with the hope of passage from there to North Bali.