Dmitri Sarafutdinov (Russian: Дмитрий Шарафутдинов; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino), also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He has won three World Championships, in 2007,[2] 2011[3] and 2012[4] and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.[5]
 Climbing at the Bouldering Worldcup August 2012 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | Russian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 16 September 1986[1] Korkino, Russia | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 178 cm (5 ft 10 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 59 kg (130 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for | Winning 3 World Championships and 1 World Cup | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
| ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Updated on 28 July 2017 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career
editDmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.
Competition climbing
editIn 2002 he started competing in the youth competition speed climbing and competition lead climbing disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France[6] and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.[7]
In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed, and bouldering disciplines, and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering.[8] From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.
On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia,[9] and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy.[10] He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber.[11] In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.[2]
In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup[12] and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy.[3] In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.[4]
In 2013 he won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podium finishes out of eight events.[5]
Rock climbing
editIn July 2012 he climbed his hardest sport climbing route, the 9a+ (5.15a)-graded route, Ali-Hulk extension, in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists of a boulder route and a sport climbing route that are linked together.[13]
Rankings
editClimbing World Cup
edit| Discipline[14] | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 56 | - | 27 | 23 | 2 | 3 | 24 | 4 | 2 | 4 | 1 | 2 | 11 | 12 | 24 |
| Lead | 63 | - | 44 | - | 44 | - | - | - | - | - | 49 | - | - | - | - |
| Speed | 20 | - | 11 | 19 | 16 | 27 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | 14 | - | 3 | 10 | 4 | 4 | - | - | - | - | 4 | - | - | - | 77 |
Climbing World Championships
edit| Discipline[15] | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 7 | 1 | - | 1 | 1 | 5 | 33 |
| Lead | 30 | 47 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Speed | - | 11 | - | - | - | - | - |
Climbing European Championships
edit| Discipline[15] | 2004 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 8 | - | 4 | 5 | 9 | 2 | 11 |
| Lead | 54 | 3 | - | 41 | - | 18 | - |
| Speed | - | 8 | - | - | - | 22 | - |
Number of medals in the World Cup
editBouldering
edit| Season[15] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2008 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2009 | 0 | |||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2011 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 5 |
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2013 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 5 |
| 2014 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
| Total | 12 | 9 | 3 | 24 |
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "Dmitry Sharafutdinov Interview". 17 July 2012. Archived from the original on 6 August 2012. Retrieved 3 May 2013.
- ^ a b "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Archived from the original on 8 March 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ a b "Dmitry Sharafutdinov and Anna Stöhr crowned Boulder World Champions at Arco". planetmountain.com. 17 July 2011. Archived from the original on 8 August 2011. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ a b Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ a b "Results of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2013". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 29 August 2013. Retrieved 26 August 2013.
- ^ "UIAA Youth World Championship Speed – Canteleu (FRA) 2002". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 September 2002. Archived from the original on 24 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "UIAA World Youth Championship – Edinburgh (GBR) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 12 September 2004. Archived from the original on 24 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "Russian Climbing Championship. Ekaterinburg. Bouldering. Speed". mountain.ru. 16 February 2004. Archived from the original on 24 May 2012. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) – Sofia (BUL) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. 21 April 2007. Archived from the original on 26 December 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2007, Fiera di Primiero won by Sharafutdinov and Gros". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2007 won by Fischhuber and Danion". planetmountain.com. 12 November 2007. Archived from the original on 5 May 2015. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2011 won by Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr". planetmountain.com. 23 August 2011. Archived from the original on 28 February 2014. Retrieved 4 June 2013.
- ^ "Dmitry Sharafutdinov repite 'Alí Hulk extension' 9a+ en Rodellar" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 26 July 2012. Archived from the original on 17 August 2013. Retrieved 10 June 2013.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Archived from the original on 9 February 2020. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Sarafutdinov's profile and rankings". Archived from the original on 7 May 2019. Retrieved 20 August 2019.
External links
editMedia related to Dmitri Sarafutdinov at Wikimedia Commons
