Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.
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| Nickname | Angy | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Nationality | Austrian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 27 January 1986 Arzl im Pitztal, Austria | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 154 cm (5 ft 1 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 46 kg (101 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | angelaeiter | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Medal record
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Climbing career
editCompetition climbing
editEiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.
In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[1] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[2] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[3] She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[4] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[5] the 2011 edition in Arco,[6] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[7]
For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[8]
In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[9] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.
Rock climbing
editOn September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[10][11] On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade.[12][13] In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.[14][15]
Rankings
editClimbing World Cup
edit| Discipline | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 18 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 13 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 35 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | 15 | 33 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | - | - | - | - |
Climbing World Championships
edit| Discipline | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 8 | - | - | - |
Climbing European Championships
edit| Discipline | 2004 | 2006 | 2010 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 5 | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
editLead
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2002 | 0 | |||
| 2003 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2004 | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| 2005 | 8 | 1 | 9 | |
| 2006 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
| 2007 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2011 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 25 | 13 | 4 | 42 |
Notable ascents
editRedpointed routes
edit9b (5.15b):
- La Planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - October 22, 2017 - World's first-ever female ascent of a 9b route.[12][13]
- Madame Ching - Tyrol (AUT) - December 2020 - World's first-ever new 9b route created by a female.[18]
9a (5.14d):
8c+ (5.14c):
8c (5.14b):
8b (5.13d):
8B (V13):
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ "Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004". planetmountain.com. 23 November 2004. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ Vinicio Stefanello (21 November 2005). "Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ "World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj". planetmountain.com. 24 November 2006. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ Vinicio Stefanello (4 July 2005). "Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ "Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco". planetmountain.com. 23 July 2011. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ Franz Schiassi (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ "Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter top the Arco Rock Legends 2006". rockmaster.com. Archived from the original on 21 January 2016. Retrieved 23 May 2013.
- ^ "Climbing break for Angy Eiter after shoulder surgery". angelaeiter.com. 26 September 2008. Archived from the original on 21 September 2013. Retrieved 8 May 2013.
- ^ a b "Angela Eiter Climbs Hades (5.14d)". DPM Magazine. 14 October 2014. Archived from the original on 18 October 2014. Retrieved 16 October 2014.
- ^ a b "Angela Eiter climbs 9a: Hades at Götterwandl in Austria". PlanetMountain.com.
- ^ a b Planet Mountain (ed.). "Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b". Retrieved 24 October 2017.
- ^ a b Planet Mountain (ed.). "Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b". Retrieved 23 October 2017.
- ^ "Angy Eiter Completes 5.15b First Ascent (Story + Photo Gallery)". 17 December 2020.
- ^ "NEWSFLASH: 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter". www.ukclimbing.com. 16 December 2020.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (20 August 2019). "Eiter's profile and rankings". Retrieved 20 August 2019.
- ^ "Angy Eiter Sends New 5.15b with Madame Ching in Austria". Gripped Magazine. 17 December 2020. Retrieved 18 December 2020.
- ^ "Angy Eiter is Not Slowing Down". 10 July 2019.
- ^ "Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven climb 9a at Margalef in Spain". PlanetMountain.com.
- ^ "Angela Eiter climbs Big Hammer, her second 9a". PlanetMountain.com.
- ^ ukclimbing.com, ed. (27 November 2010). "Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension, 8c+".
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (31 May 2007). "Arrampicata: Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffè 8c+".
- ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (5 October 2009). "Angela Eiter in gran forma". Archived from the original on 8 October 2009. Retrieved 25 October 2017.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (21 September 2006). "Angela Eiter vola a-vista verso Skyline 8b".
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (26 August 2014). "Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa".